Surfing in Hiriketiya

A week after school ended, my family packed up our car and left on the three-hour journey to the beach! Once we had arrived at our Airbnb, we put on our swimsuits and walked down to the beach. It was gorgeous. The beach itself looked like it had been cut out of a postcard. Palm trees lined the sides and the white sand was soft and very fun to walk on. The waves were strong and loud, but not overwhelming – they were perfect for my family who had just started to learn how to surf.

We were down at the beach the next morning by 8:00 am and had met up with the Nathan twins and another family. The waves this morning weren’t good at all. The sets were weak and even if there was an opportunity, you wouldn’t be able to ride in on the wave. Even though I didn’t catch as many waves as I wanted to, I was able to get used to being on a surfboard. The next day, the waves were really good and I was able to catch everyone I went for. The Lockwoods stopped by so my brother, Lenny, Amy, and I spent several hours surfing. On our last day there, the waves were much bigger and stronger than the previous day’s waves, but I managed to catch several of them.

I learned a lot about surfing this trip and I feel like I also improved a lot. I went from not really being able to stand up on the board the first day, to catching much larger waves and consistently standing up on all of them. I also learned about surf etiquette and how after you catch a wave you have to paddle around and behind everyone else to give others a chance.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *